Friday, 10 July 2009

Palma July 2 - 9

On the afternoon of July 2 we returned to our marina in Palma, feeling extremely relaxed. We decided to show Rob the Santa Catalina area near the beautiful restored stone windmills, overlooking the bay. So we ate at Magnafuccio, the charming Italian restaurant where the owner is renowned for his friendly manner, even sitting at the table when discussing our dinner choices. A huge entree serve of perfectly steamed mussels in white wine and garlic easily satisfied the four of us before our main courses - Rob and Doug had homemade pasta with porcini mushrooms and Greg and I had extremely tender pieces of veal sprinkled with rocket. It was a beautiful night to walk home, just as it usually is at this time of the year.

We rented a car Friday morning so we took Rob to the larger El Corte Ingles store so she could claim duty back on any goods bought at either of their stores (much better than doing it at the airport) and then had lunch at one of the chic cafes on the esplanade overlooking the beach at Portitxol, on the way to take Rob and Doug to the airport. Our meals were so large it was ridiculous. I had jamon and melon and there was enough
of both to feed an army, especially after the gratis olives and P' amb oli (a Mallorcan speciality where olive oil and very ripe tomatoes are rubbed over toasted bread). Portitxol is an area where many apartments are being restored, especially along the beach area, and it's very attractive because of the cute cafes and the lack of tall high rise complexes.

After dropping off Rob and Doug we returned to El Corte Ingles because they have an excellent supermarket in the basement, an excellent ground floor section for chemist shop type supplies (so we could stock up on Piz Buin suntan lotions) and also I needed a little more time to explore the level with ladies' wear.

For the past week we have been mostly relaxing in Palma, with long morning walks along the waterfront before the day warms up too much, pleasant strolls around the old town in the late afternoons, lounging in the cockpit, sunbaking on the bow where there is more breeze and a couple of great visits to the market for food and wine. We are eating a huge amount of fruit as it's all so juicy and sweet. It's interesting that when I buy strawberries (loose, by weight) and figs my special lady (I now know she is Catalina) places them on cabbage leaves to keep them from sweating so they last a long time. I will do that at home from now on as it works really well. The peaches are so juicy we have been looking for some Prosecco (Italian sweeter sparkling) to buy so we can add the peach juice to make belinis, one of our favourite pre-dinner drinks.

We have eaten well on board, especially the night we had the tiniest lamb chops and cutlets I have ever seen, but we have also discovered some excellent restaurants we have not been to before.

Due is among the waterfront line of glitzy cafes, restaurants and shops at the up-market marina area at Portals Nous. We both had perfectly grilled sole which was expertly filleted at the table, served with creamed spinach and tiny roasted potatoes, as we looked over the marina with nearly a full moon above. Greg's entree was prawn cocktail, an old-fashioned dish but with such fresh prawns and a properly made sauce it was excellent and our Pinot Grigio from Venezia was just the right wine for both courses.

In the middle of the tapas places in old town we went to a funky restaurant, with all white decor and low tables and comfy leather chairs, in the Hotel Opio. The food was organic but they need a better chef to execute their healthy ideas; the "tempura" soft shell crabs were deep fried in lots of batter unfortunately. Greg's fresh lobster was fine (what could the chef do to ruin that) but my chicken and vegetable rolls were also fried. This might explain why the restaurant was not crowded but by the time we left at about midnight the bar at the restaurant entrance was really humming.

We even had breakfast out one day, after a very long walk. There is a creperie across the road from the marina, where the lovely thin crepes are made on a very large flat iron circle and we had ours served with lemon juice and a little powdered sugar. We decided that going out for breakfast meant that we were really on holiday but it might have detracted from the gains made by the healthy long walk!

Our most interesting meal was at Refectori where Marc Fosh is the chef. I have been looking for the Fosh food store since we first came to Palma two years ago so at last I have been able to find out where it is. Greg and I will visit it soon and perhaps do a cooking class, but the dinner at Refectori was so good it has a separate log entry. We will definitely return there.

Unfortunately I have had some work to do, writing an article for e:lit and a report about a literacy statement, but it doesn't seem too bad when the sun is shining and I am on the boat. It's not easy getting a wifi connection so our telstra phone card is getting a bit of a beating for me to send and receive my writing and Susie is helping too as I send her fax copies to type. As much as I love this blackberry I do not wish to write multiple pages on it.

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