Sunday, 14 September 2008

Racing week

It has been quite a different lifestyle this past week, with the focus on the daily races. Because each race has been around some of the islands to the north of Porto Cervo, in the strait that divides Sardinia from Corsica, the crew have all enjoyed the scenery immensely. A long time ago Corsica and Sardinia were joined together and the islands between them now were the mountain tops above the valleys that are now covered by the sea. The northern part of Sardinia is the same beautiful rugged and rocky terrain as Corsica.

We are based in the marina of the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda in Porto Cervo. The marina harbor is extremely protected by the natural environs as the inlet is not too wide and has a steep hill each side. The clubhouse is elegant with beautiful dark timber floors and walls and classic smart Italian decor. The pool and large terrace at the lounge, bar and restaurant level is something that every yacht club should have. Unfortunately only club members and guests staying in the club residence are allowed to use it, but we do have access to all other facilities. There is also a very large terrace across the front of the club, overlooking the boats, and as drinks are provided there at the end of every race day the inside of the club is not frequented by many.

Restaurants, cafes, bars, a ship chandler, a hairdresser and sports clothing shops surround the club so the area is a hub for race week activities, but as there are several restaurants, cafes and bars just outside the marina, where the main crew apartments are situated, that tends to be the area for night time gatherings.

The races began on Tuesday, with races intended for each day through to Sunday. Friday was supposed to be a lay day but there was no wind on Thursday; so after the yachts had been waiting out at the start line floating around for a few hours the race was postponed until Friday. It was intended to be a longer race, but the start was delayed a few hours due to lack of wind. Instructions were issued that no boat could continue racing after 9.00 pm, even if they hadn't finished the course by then!

The wind built throughout the afternoon to about 25 knots, gusting at 30+ when a heavy storm went through (with lightning flashing in the black sky), causing some yachts to retire due to boat damage. The crew looked like drowned rats when they finished the race at about 7.00 pm as the rain was solid. The number 3 headsail was damaged but more importantly there were no personal injuries on our boat. It took all of us about 90 minutes to return the boat to some sort of normal order, with water from wet sails to mop up down below and sails to furl etc. I also had to change the bed linen in the forward cabins because the hatches had not been secured tightly enough and of course there had been a lot of water over the decks in the heavy seas.

With even heavier winds predicted for yesterday and today the damaged sail did mean the end of racing for us because the number 1 headsail is too big for those conditions.
As it turned out yesterday's race had to be cancelled due to winds of 30 knots gusting to 50 in the section of the course between Corsica and Sardinia where the wind funnels through the relatively narrow strait. Yachting can be a frustrating sport - Thursday's race postponed due to lack of wind and Saturday's cancelled due to excessively strong wind.

At least the weather conditions meant that we didn't have to announce our retirement from racing and the team were able to spend yesterday returning Dream Catcher III to it's cruising mode - cruising sails, dinghy and barbecue back on, fridge with normal supplies rather than filled with water and beer, protective cover off the dining and coffee tables, etc.

I only stayed on the boat for the Wednesday race, deciding to explore the land area more and also have a bit of a break from the boat. This has given me a chance to do the shopping for beer, gatorade, water and nibbles without needing to rush around at the end of each day. We order paninis for lunch every day, making life a lot easier than during the last regatta. I have also had a chance to window shop around all of the ritzy stores in the nearby Porto Cervo village, plus enjoy a leisurely cappuccino and croissant each morning. Friday I even rented a lounge on the beach at Baia Sardinia (another nearby resort village) for about an hour before the winds really picked up and the grey clouds arrived. The yachties were pleased about the wind, but it did spoil my beach plans!

Dream Catcher III has done fairly well in its three races, finishing 18th the first day and in a similar spot the second and third days. Considering the age of the crew (sorry guys and Rhonda), their lack of team practice and lack of knowledge of the boat and the racing area, they should feel very satisfied about that. Most boats have professional crew who are much younger. As Dream Catcher III is the only Australian entry it's a great experience for everyone. At the yacht club crew party last night we were awarded a prize for the boat and crew that had travelled the longest distance to participate. It's a fine trophy to mount on the wall under the ship's clock - an engraved heavy silver plate made by Asprey.

Life hasn't all been on the boat this past week. In fact a couple of social events have been quite extraordinary. On Wednesday night the owners of maxi Swans (as a 60 footer our yacht is classed as a maxi) were invited for dinner to the private villa of an Italian prince and princess. The villa originally was a five star hotel and spa but the prince bought it last year as their Sardinian summer home. We were chauffeured there in an Audi and driven in a little cart through the gardens to the front door, where the two very young adorable daughters welcomed us to their home. After a sumptuous range of hors d'ouvres and pre-dinner drinks (including my favorite - belinis), with about 50 other guests, including personal friends of the hosts, we sat at dining tables on one part of their terrace, overlooking the pool and the sparkling lights of boats anchored in the sea beyond. We selected our first course from buffet tables laden with a superb array of antipasti dishes and waiters served us our wines and main course before we returned to the buffet tables for our choice of desserts.

An outstanding magician had been brought in especially to entertain us along with a pianist and singer, plus one of the hosts' friends is a famous Italian singer, whose name we are yet to pick up but we were obviously extremely honored to have her sing a couple of songs for us. She is also very attractive and has a fabulous figure! As we reflected while being chauffeured home at the end of the night, it was worth owning a Swan maxi just to have had the opportunity for such a wonderful experience. We had also struck up a friendship with other Swan owners, particularly a couple from Canada and a couple from England.

Friday night was the dinner for all of the regatta yacht owners, hosted by Rolex and held at Colonna Pevero, one of the top hotels in the Costa Smeralda. We were late because we had helped clean up the boat and we found it interesting that other owners had just left their crew to do that.

Thankfully the storm had passed through because the function was set in an area where the tables flowed out into the terraces bordered by a huge lawn and garden area, where a "moving light show" was continually played on the trees. We were too late for hors d'ouvres but enjoyed the sea bass with baby broad beans and the huge range of desserts. Great music was provided by the Monte Carlo Orchestra throughout the night and a very entertaining singer called Nick the Nightfly. As the famous singer from Wednesday night's party was present she was encouraged to perform a couple of numbers too. We even finished the night with a little dancing. Another special experience.

John and Chris Wipfli arrived yesterday so we are looking forward to some fun days together with them. It has rained again through the night
and the day has begun very cloudy and cool. I hope that summer weather isn't completely over, although we are very pleased to be rid of the terrible humidity we have unexpectedly had to cope with for the past two weeks.


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