Tuesday, 15 July 2008

Isola di Elba

Last night we returned to Al Convento for dinner, situated on one of the cliff edges of the hilltop town of Scarlino, but this time we arrived early enough to walk through the town first. It is the best preserved Tuscan town we have seen, meticulously restored where necessary and NOT ONE tourist shop anywhere. Not even any postcards. It's simply a stunning Tuscan town where people live and an unused castle with a wide moat sits above them like a guard over the town.

The dinner and the sunset at Al Convento were as superb as Sunday night. We also happened to talk to a Dutch couple (Christine and Carl Paawe-Meijer) at the next table and by coincidence they own the other Swan 60 at our marina! So we had Nespresso on our boat before we headed off this morning and look forward to meeting up with them at the Swan Regatta in Port Cervo, Sardinia, in September. It's wonderful to meet people from other yachts, look at each other's ideas on the layout and fit-out of yachts, and share experiences and knowledge. We particularly love to be able to seek others' wisdom about the ports that we haven't been to yet.

By 11.30 we were on our way to Isola di Elba, but unfortunately the wind was on the nose - of course, so we had to motor for the first 2 hours of the 3 hour journey. It was a beautiful day, with bright blue skies and sunshine, but with the breeze keeping us cool. The water temperature was 77 degrees F but there was no need to have a swim to cool off while we were out there. We passed smaller rocky islands on the way and could still see the Tuscan hills behind us and with Isola di Elba out in front, plus the higher mountains of Corsica behind that in the distance.

Near Elba Island we passed from deep blue water to bright aqua water as we changed from a depth of 36 metres to 42 metres and then back to the dark blue as the sea "shallowed" again. It was extraordinary. We took numerous photos because the scenes were stunning. Always watching out for the numerous car and passenger ferries travelling to and from Elba to the mainland we sprung sheets and sailed along the coast of the island and into the harbor of Portoferraio.

We cruised around checking out the scene in the port below the town but decided to just drop anchor in the harbor to enjoy the tranquility and afternoon breeze that cooled the heat of the day.

A nap, some reading, dinner on board - barbecued 1.5" t-bone of Chianina beef bought at Roccastrada a few days ago, and it just melted in the mouth!

We are looking forward to exploring Portoferraio tomorrow, the town where Napolean was exiled to in 1814. (Trivia question: Why was he exiled? We have read about his exile in many references but the reason is never given. Obviously our history lessons were not complete.)